Jim Moore’s extensive career at GQ, spanning over four decades, not only charts the course of an individual’s unwavering commitment to fashion but also reflects the dynamic shifts within the industry itself. Luckily for me, Moore came to Toronto for a stop of his book tour back in March of 2020 (just before the COVID-pandemic lockdowns), an eerie time to say the least, and I got a chance to speak with him. So, let me set the scene… here I was, sitting across from this living legend, hearing his life story “from the horses mouth,” as they say. But what immediately caught me by surprise was his calmness, humility, and understated elegance—despite his remarkable success. He sat and recanted his journey, from starting as an intern and climbing his way to the pinnacle role of creative director.
Moore’s journey through the ranks of GQ is a story of ambition, precision, and transformative vision, deeply entwined with the evolution of men’s fashion. His book, “Hunks & Heroes: Four Decades of Fashion at GQ,” encapsulates this journey, offering a window into the impactful shifts he helped steer through the magazine and undeniably, the broader men’s fashion landscape.
Moore’s impact on fashion is marked by his relentless push against the boundaries of traditional men’s styling. “You have to be the bad creative cop that says, ‘We need to push this picture one step further,'” Moore explains, illustrating his commitment to creative excellence. This philosophy has defined his work, whether capturing the essence of celebrity personalities, or setting new trends. At GQ, Moore was instrumental in evolving the magazine from a traditional men’s publication into a beacon of high fashion and style innovation. He was a pioneer in integrating high-fashion elements with accessible menswear, thereby broadening the magazine’s appeal and setting new industry standards.
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A visionary’s path: “Started from the bottom“
From the outset, Jim Moore was driven by a vision to challenge and redefine men’s fashion. His early days at GQ were marked by a discernible shift from traditional men’s attire towards a more inclusive and broad-spectrum approach to men’s styling. Moore was pivotal in transforming GQ into a vanguard of high fashion, intertwined with the practicality and accessibility of streetwear, which helped the magazine resonate deeply with its readers. His knack for juxtaposing unexpected elements—a tuxedo paired with sneakers, or vibrant textures infused into classic suits—brought a fresh dynamic to the magazine’s pages.
“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.”
Jim Moore, creative director-at-large, GQ
Moore’s innovative approach is perhaps best exemplified by his decision to remove a basketball from Michael Jordan’s hand during a photoshoot, which shifted the narrative from heroism to vulnerability, illustrating Moore’s deep understanding of subtlety in fashion portrayal. Moore’s philosophy extended beyond aesthetics, viewing fashion as a powerful conduit for self-expression and personal identity, often stating, “Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life.”
Mentorship and influence
Jim Moore’s extensive role as a mentor extends far beyond his editorial responsibilities at GQ, impacting the next generation of fashion industry professionals profoundly. Emphasizing the importance of hands-on experience and meticulous attention to detail, Moore has nurtured the careers of countless young stylists and photographers, instilling in them the rigorous standards required in the fast-paced fashion industry. His philosophy of “learning by doing,” as he often shares, encourages emerging talents to engage deeply with every aspect of their craft, noting, “It takes elbow grease, it takes getting on your hands, and knees and organizing (ahem ahem, attention all entitled gen z’s). You have to love organizing the sock drawer by colour if it’s going to lead to that.” Something that IYKYK, I know all too much about.
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“It takes elbow grease,
Jim Moore, author of the book “HUnks & Heroes: Four decades of fashion at GQ”
Furthermore, Moore’s career and mentorship approach were notably influenced by the broader shifts within the fashion publishing landscape, including the significant restructuring at Condé Nast. During this period, under the leadership of Anna Wintour, Condé Nast saw a reevaluation of its brands and strategies, aiming to adapt to the digital age’s challenges. Moore’s adaptability and forward-thinking were crucial during these transitions, demonstrating resilience and an ability to guide his mentees through the changing dynamics of fashion media. His collaboration with Wintour and involvement in strategic pivots at GQ highlight his influential role in navigating through industry upheavals, preparing his protégés for a range of scenarios in their future careers.
Iconic collaborations and insights
Moore’s recounting of photoshoots with Kanye West reveals much about his directive acumen. The session, which was fraught with potential chaos, ended up reinforcing Moore’s original vision, showcasing his ability to steer dynamic situations toward envisioned outcomes. The shoot with Tom Ford, wherein Moore convinced Ford to deviate from his signature black attire, further illustrates Moore’s skill in melding personal brand strengths with new, unexpected elements to enhance narrative depth.
Convincing Tom Ford to deviate from his signature black attire
In an iconic photoshoot, Moore was tasked with persuading Ford to step away from his signature black attire, a challenge, given Ford’s strong personal style. Moore approached this delicately, ensuring respect for Ford’s brand while guiding the fashion narrative in a fresh direction. Reflecting on this experience, Moore recounted, “I called him and said we kind of made a decision to not use any black clothes in this particular issue… He shows up and he’s wearing a blue velvet jacket and blue jeans.” This interaction not only speaks to Moore’s persuasive skills, but also highlights his respect for individual style preferences. Ford’s compliance and the successful outcome of the shoot underscore the deep mutual respect and professional synergy between the two. Moore vividly recalls, “He’s going to play ball; he’s going to do it his way,” encapsulating the essence of their collaborative spirit.
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From nine-hour fittings with Kanye to writing his foreward
Kanye West, who Moore tapped to write the foreword for “Hunks & Heroes,” reflects the deep mutual respect and collaborative spirit between the two, emphasizing the crossover between celebrity influence and fashion editorial. Jim Moore shared an experience with Kanye West, during a marathon nine-hour fitting session, that exemplifies the complexities and unexpected turns that can occur in high-profile fashion styling.
This extensive session was not just a testament to Moore’s patience and dedication but also highlighted his ability to navigate the intricate dynamics of celebrity styling. Describing the intensity of the experience, Moore shared, “The fitting was nine hours… we didn’t have a drop of water and I never sat down, and you just don’t show that you’re sweating and we got through it.” This ordeal ultimately circled back to Moore’s original vision, underscoring his strategic foresight and Kanye’s eventual alignment with the proposed looks. Moore reflected on the moment, saying, “In the end, he circled back around to the ten or twelve looks that I put together originally,” illustrating a successful collaboration that balanced creative tension with professional respect. This fitting, marked by its duration and depth, solidified a mutual understanding and respect between Moore and Kanye, leading to a memorable and iconic photoshoot as the outcome.
Moore dives into the future of men’s fashion
Looking ahead, Moore envisions a fashion industry that continues to embrace diversity, inclusivity, and personal expression, something that’s perfectly aligned with everything we truly believe in at Gent’s Post. Moore anticipated a more culturally responsive approach to men’s fashion, where personal identity and global narratives become increasingly intertwined with fashion expressions. Luckily, we’re now starting to finally see this. Jim Moore’s own adaptations during the pandemic—embracing digital mediums and remote collaborations—speak to his foresight and adaptability, traits have also contributed to keeping him at the forefront of fashion innovation.
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Legacy and lasting influence
Jim Moore’s legacy at GQ and in the fashion industry is profound. Through his book and his ongoing work, he continues to inspire new generations of fashion enthusiasts to explore the expressive power of fashion. His career journey from an intern to a revered creative director is not just a testament to his personal tenacity and creative vision, but also a blueprint for those aspiring to make their mark in the ever-evolving world of fashion.
As fashion continues to evolve, Moore’s work remains a benchmark for innovation and creativity. His enduring influence will leave a lasting legacy in the role fashion plays in crafting personal and collective identities, and his journey encourages future creatives to dream boldly and disrupt wisely.
Editor's note: This interview originally took place in Toronto in March 2020, just before the COVID-pandemic lockdown. The story has since then been adapted, looking back and reflecting on the conversation vs. just a Q&A. A special thanks to Shayne Stephens of 914Dale for arranging the interview during Moore's Toronto book tour stop.
